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Gents
Are there any shortcuts to replacing the rear seal on a 308 without removing it from the car?
Its looking like I'll need to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel to have it surfaced.
So I'll have pretty good access.
Excuse my ignorance if this is a stupid question.
Cheers
Jeremy |
The G will roll again.... eventually |
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Not that i know of,unless its only the bottom part of the seal leaking.but you have to drop the crank out(or at least lift it a little),honestly its better taking out engine and box together with what you have got to do.plus you get to clean up alot of other stuff while your at it...jim
Jim in Adelaide |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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just take the engine out. the seal sits inside the last main cap and if its a rope seal it takes patience just to do it properly on a stand, if you rush it leaks..mate just did his in his 250 cross flow we put into his landcruiser, but being a 6 cyl all the rods hang straight so we could do it while it was still in the car. if you actually manage to get the sump of and drop the crank, its mission immposable to get it back in because of the way the rods hang. I know cause i did it on my own! i used fishing line to hold the rods into posotion while i put the crank in.
Take it out mike up the bore and crank and give it a birthday of rings bearings and gaskets.
Havent you learnt anything from that guy that gives sermons at church?...Captain whats his name. |
Havent you learnt anything from that guy that gives sermons at church?...Captain whats his name. |
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I HAVE DONE A REAR MAIN SEAL ON A 308 AND ON SOME EARLY VN V6 ENGINES IN THE CAR WITH A TOOL CALLED SNEAKY PETE. I THINK IT WAS SOLD AT REPCO WORKED GOOD JUST REMOVE SUMP AND BACK BEARING CAP USING THE TOOL REMOVE OLD ROPE SEAL SOKE NEW REAR MAIN IN OIL OVERNIGHT FIT NEW SEAL WITH TOOL WITCH THEADS IT AROUND CRANKSHAFT YOU WILL NEED SOMEONE TO WIND CRANKSHAFT AROUND AT THE SAME TIME YOU PULL THE TOOL AND NEW SEAL THOUGH THEN CUT THE ROPE SEAL OFF ABOUT 4MM ABOVE THE BLOCK. FIT THE OTHER ROPE SEAL IN MAIN CAP AND ROLL IT IN WITH A SOCKET BAR CUT OF THE REMAINING SEAL FLUSH TO THE MAIN CAP PUT SOME PERMATEX SEALER BETWEEN THE TWO MATEING SURFACES TENSION MAIN CAP BOLT DOWN AND REFIT SUMP .HOPE THIS CAN HELP.
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I have heard of that tool, but was told its a tempory fix and doest last that long?
Havent you learnt anything from that guy that gives sermons at church?...Captain whats his name. |
Havent you learnt anything from that guy that gives sermons at church?...Captain whats his name. |
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Hi Mad68
Did the fix last?
Also, my blocks old (HT block) so I assume it has a rubber seal??
Would it work with rubber as well?
Cheers
Jeremy |
The G will roll again.... eventually |
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Pull the motor out, and do some extras on the donk while you can. I think the front cross member may also get in the way too. Do all the seals, the welsh plugs, rings if you want. Even a touch of paint.
Cheers John
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HI jpb308 THIS WAS A REPAIR WE DID WHEN I WORKED AT A HOLDEN DEALER ON VERY EARLY VN COMMODORES DONT REMEMBER ANY COME BACK.I DONT THINK IT WOULD WORK ON THE RUBBER TYPE SEALS.IF YOU ARE GOING TO TAKE THE FLYWHEEL OF YOU SHOULD PULL THE MOTOR OUT IT WILL BE FASTER ANYWAY.
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sneaky petes work on the rubber seals as well, go to repco or bursons they have them in stock....
HOLDEN The Great Way to Move |
HOLDEN The Great Way to Move |
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