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jim Offline
#1 Posted : Thursday, 11 November 2010 4:01:07 AM(UTC)
jim

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Hi All are you going to be storing or rebuilding your car?...helpfull tips I didnt do and wish I had ....just a bit of help for whoever needs it.

http://www.mynrma.com.au...sl/storing_your_car.htm

Jim in Adelaide..
Jim in Adelaide..
cloudy Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, 11 November 2010 4:04:18 AM(UTC)
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My ss is on jack stands with all wheels in the air,saves the tyres, I bet you wish you did that jim ! lol
jim Offline
#3 Posted : Thursday, 11 November 2010 4:17:27 AM(UTC)
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Cloudy,You know me,I'll PAY my way out of it.P.S.I did say I wished I had done that,at least they're dry.

Jim in Adelaide..
Jim in Adelaide..
Jul71-Oct74 Offline
#4 Posted : Saturday, 13 November 2010 3:19:09 PM(UTC)
Jul71-Oct74

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All good tips, the only one I would question is 'Start and run car for 10 minutes' I was always told that if you are going to start it you should keep it running until it is 'thoroughly warm.' I'm not sure you would achieve that with a large Holden motor in just 10 minutes. Any other opinions on this?
greenhj Offline
#5 Posted : Sunday, 14 November 2010 4:06:14 AM(UTC)
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i dont drive my car much, I NEVER start it unless i plan on driving it.

Nowhere near enough load at idle to get the oil hot enough to burn off impurities, moisture etc so essentially its a bunch of cold starts one after another for no real reason.

I do however, turn the engine over a little with a breaker bar to move the parts around a touch, even a half turn is enough once a week.

Leave the tank full, and if fuels been in more than 4 weeks i drain the lot and refill before driving it.

car sits on stands under the diff, and under the wishbone/shock mount.

lift wiper arms off windscreen, open doors and shut to first "click" rather than fully closed.

pop bonnet, pop boot and disconnect battery, fit trickle charger.

if youre keen, you can let a bunch of air out of the tyres or remove valves altogether.

To get it out, close everything up, refit bits and pieces.

start the car, 2000rpm for 30 seconds (need that splash to lube the cam and bore walls) then in gear and drive away.

No good idling in the driveway for half an hour, tune the thing so it works right when cold.

use more second gear than top for a couple of k's, less load on the engine and a few more revs to get it up to temp quicker, avoid prolonged idling by clicking into neutral and keeping revs up (or stall against convertor)

drive gently, at the 10 kilometre mark, give it f***ing heaps...


11.38@117mph
will go quicker

11.34@121mph
went quicker and faster, just not quick enough.

now being rebuilt with less cam, much less comp, and a turbo.

Edited by user Sunday, 14 November 2010 4:07:39 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified





11.34@121mph NA
now being rebuilt with less cam, much less comp, and enough turbo to smash a holden block to bits..
Jul71-Oct74 Offline
#6 Posted : Monday, 15 November 2010 8:38:25 PM(UTC)
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Hey Green HJ
Yeah that is more or less what I have been told to. A lot of people think the short start thing does more harm than good so I avoid it as well.
kelvin01au Offline
#7 Posted : Thursday, 18 November 2010 6:36:28 AM(UTC)
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good god. that would mean having a working choke or a very rich mixture.
cloudy Offline
#8 Posted : Thursday, 18 November 2010 7:06:37 AM(UTC)
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I bought a HQ that had sat for 5 years with periodic start ups it was a 173 manual, it would no longer fire up when I got it home , the plugs had a ball of soot on the ends and the water cooled manifold had a hose drop off with the manifold end still in it. The oil was black and runny and smelt of strong petrol fumes.
With new oil ,plugs and manifold/carby swap it ran quite well.
johnperth Offline
#9 Posted : Friday, 19 November 2010 9:01:32 AM(UTC)
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never leave the handbrake on for long periods, the pistons get compressed in the wheel cylinders and the section of cylinder behind the piston gets exposure to the atmosphere and rusts, causing the rubbers to get shredded when next used.
RigPig Offline
#10 Posted : Monday, 20 December 2010 9:05:28 AM(UTC)
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Get yourself 4 wheel dollys theyre a good space saving idea

"I would never want to be a member of a group whose symbol was a guy nailed to two pieces of wood" (George Carlin)
"I would never want to be a member of a group whose symbol was a guy nailed to two pieces of wood" (George Carlin)
Keeo Offline
#11 Posted : Friday, 24 December 2010 6:33:42 PM(UTC)
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Hi, spider webs (daddy long legs)was masses of web undercar so i sprayed a circle around car with a long life surface spray did the trick. I had a rat/ mice problem once,and dont they love interiors got in thru speedo cable hole .Block up all holes.A car cover is a good idea.cheers -keeo
80737 Warwick Offline
#12 Posted : Thursday, 24 March 2011 4:59:52 AM(UTC)
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Man
Australia

Not sure if its been stated yet, but i recommend a large piece of carpet for the car to be parked over.
To stop the moisture from seeping thru the concrete getting into the underside of your pride n joy whist its resting in your shed.
Bruvpig Offline
#13 Posted : Wednesday, 27 April 2011 8:59:25 AM(UTC)
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Well it just goes to show.... you can be lucky sometimes.
I just pulled the top off the "fresh" 308 (<5k km), that was my pride and joy when I got married.

It was parked out the back and left to deteriorate after the feral kids next door jumped on the roof and staved it in. That was '92

Nothing was done to keep it fresh, as we were going to build a shed around it....didn't happen, missus didn't like cars(really the time spent on it)
Took the carby off to use on something else, and the potato vines grew all around it, dogs used it to hide in and on and under and the roof rusted away.

Well I Needed some heads for the Panelvan, and as they had been ported, and big valves, I thought I might check to see if they had rusted shut... ---Well I had to move it anyway, and the lighter it is the easier it would be to tow.
The manifold had cat hair all over it, and in it, and I can see why as mouse droppings fell out of it when it was lifted off.

BUT>>>

Absoutely pristine.... even with two spark plugs missing (dont know who took them... I didnt) There was the slightest tinge of red in two of the bores, and I thought that I might get lucky enough with just a hone to fresh up.... but it gets better, taking off the pully, the whole motor spun with the slightest pressure on the 1/2 inch spanner, and two cycles later, the rings had completely cleaned the bores... no sign of rust AT ALL.
I'll strip her down of course, but it looks like this one is a Goer-- bloody beauty, as it was a nice bit of kit, all balanced an all--

Just have to see if the Glide is tight now and i'll have a full drive train for the next venture.....

Soooo
Sorry guys dont bother with all the prep, abandon it to the will of the gods.
All's good
Footnote..... cant say the same for the body... I'll have to use this one for another project, maybe a roadster to keep one more brougham from pet food cans

Brian

Edited by user Wednesday, 27 April 2011 9:16:47 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Stepping stone or stumbling block...your choice
Bruvpig Offline
#14 Posted : Wednesday, 27 April 2011 9:03:55 AM(UTC)
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Forgot to say, that the tyres all have 34lbs of early 90's air in them too .... For anyone chasing that concourse originality for their 90's ride :-)
Oh, the fuel pump covered me in petrol too when I cranked it with the spanner... but thats ok, as I only paid 68 cents a litre for it then.

Edited by user Wednesday, 27 April 2011 9:11:24 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Stepping stone or stumbling block...your choice
castellan Offline
#15 Posted : Sunday, 21 April 2013 9:22:17 PM(UTC)
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What i have seen is the crank gets rusty when sitting for a year or so. this is due to old oil with petrol and water that's in it. so if you are to have a engine sitting always change the oil beforehand and firer it up to get all the new oil through out. and i would undo the rocker arms so the chamber is closed.
Gear box and diff should be turned ocasionly to, as with time rust starts.
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